Food, Travelers and Other Tidbits

More stuff on my mind while I wait for my shuttle.

Food. It is an experience of it's own here. I was gluten-free for 3 years, but upon booking this trip I soon realized that was next to impossible here. A few weeks before I left I started reintroducing it back in. It sucked. It's still sucks. There is no better way to put it. 

Here they pretty much survive on bread and meat. Mostly just bread. I'm at breakfast (oddly, alone. Yesterday this place was full) and here are my options. Cake, I think.  There is chocolate and yellow. It could be bread but it's cake-like. 3 types of bread and toast fixings. Pitchers of yogurt (it's liquid here), orange juice stuff, some other juice, and milk. And cornflakes.  Standard breakfast. 

Lunches are mostly more bread. Sandwiches or Empinadas are the majority of options. And everyone eats these cookie things as snacks, all damn day. And croissants. Sweet, savory, stuffed with meat or caramel. Depends on the meal.

Let's just say I feel...uncomfortable.  I barely fit into my pants as my tummy is so bloated. And it makes me tired and sick after every meal. I'm pretty sure these people stay thin through diuretics.  Because on top of all that, they drink Cafe and Mate All. Damn. Day. It's the only way I don't slip into a coma for most of the day.

Other fun food stuff.  I didn't expect to find good beer here, but they had an AMAZING porter last night. I may have consumed a few with lunch (it was technically dinner, but anything before 7 or 8 is still lunch here) And I only wanted a starter, but all they had was a sampler

they named "Diet Killer." It really was. The calamari was amazing. And deep fried anchovies, tasty as well. The meatballs were super good. And, I can't even make this up,  a cut-up hotdog. Which was actually delicious.  But it was still hot dog. Oh, and there were chicken wings, but I'm pretty sure they just battered and fried petrified chicken remains. It was hilarious how un-edible they were.  If that's even a word. I really don't care.

I'm looking forward to trying steak, which I hear is really the best thing to eat down here. Meat is their specialty. I really need a break from bread! Another guy asked me yesterday if I was a vegetarian.  I seriously don't recommend any vegetarians come here. 1. They really don't eat veggies. 2. I think they ask so they can eat you for your bodies for nutrients.  But seriously,  this is no place for someone who doesn't eat meat. Unless you really,  like reaaaaally like bread. 

Perito Moreno Glacier

Today was incredible.  I know I will see some amazing things in the next month, but I'm fairly certain this will be in the top 3. There really are no words, and pictures barely do it justice.  

Sadly, I left my battery in my DSLR and it got stuck on, rookie mistake. Note: remove your camera battety during travel to ensure it stays charged! Lucky for me my phone takes pretty quality photos. I still may go back anyway before this trip is over. Definitely in this lifetime.

Some girls at my Hostel recommended a small travel agency down here and I am very glad I used them. They are called BAFT (Backpack Free Travel). They pick you up, book all necessary travel, and even teach you about everything on the drive (in Spanish and English!). And it's all ridiculously reasonable prices. Anyway, I learned much more than the folks who took public transportation (only a $10 difference) and I got a free beer and empinada at the end!

We hiked around for a few hours and then took a boat up to the South face of the glacier. I could give you a bunch of facts about the park but it's faster (and more accurate) for you to google it. I highly suggest it!

I also have been meeting so many incredible people and it was only day 2! One couple at breakfast was from Vancouver, and the girl I spent my day with is from Oregon.  It always amazes me how small this big world really is.

On our return ride I was the only one awake, so I chatted with our guide and helped solidify my next step in the trip. I really came down here with no itinerary,  it's the best way to do it if you have the time. Word of mouth is by far the best travel agent there is! I had originally planned to hike in Torres Del Paine, but I struggled with booking Refugios, and wasn't stoked on camping alone in one of the windiest places in the world, not to mention the park is super expensive.  It just wasn't adding up to my desire for the purpose of my trip. Plus, our guide informed me that El Chalten is the same landscape, better views, less trouble etc. After all my weighing of options I made the decision to use that time elsewhere,  perhaps off the typical tourist map. (Everyone here is pretty much doing the same thing, either coming from or going to your next destination.) It makes up to date information super easy to get. 

So, today I am using the same travel agent. They pick me up, drive me to another remote location. We then embark on a 5 hour horse-back ride to a viewpoint of Mt Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, glacier fields etc. We stay at a local hostel and they drive me to the bus station Sunday where I will travel to El Chalten for however long I decide to stay. So excited for more adventure!!

I probably won't have internet this next 4-5 days so don't worry if you don't hear from me. If I have the chance I will update when I can. For now, enjoy some pictures. Choosing a few from the hundreds I took was difficult!

Me with Perido Moreno behind

It's nearly impossible to get it to scale, but this one helps show how massive it is. The entirety of this glacier is bigger than Buenos Aires!

If this video works, I was lucky to catch ice fall on camera. I apologize for the volume and screaming.  This guy next to me was on day 2 trying to catch them on film and he didn't even catch any

The rocks reminded me so much of Maine

El Calafate

¡Hola!

I have arrived in El Calafate. This city is like a central "hub" to all of my southern adventures. I fly in and out of here, and stay here in between excursions. 

The flight down was fun. Apparently cell phones are prohibited on Airolines Argentinas. But I brought about 10 books on my phone to save space and weight...so I smuggled my phone behind a magazine so I could survive the flight. With all of my traveling and long commutes, I have already read 2 books this trip!

I found a great hostel online, Schillings Hostel, and it did not disappoint.  Wonderful, friendly, knowledgeable staff with great English. The accommodations are nice for a hostel, I have no complaints.  And leaving my schedule open was a smart choice, as I've been here less than a day and have received a number of great tips/recommendations from fellow travelers. I'm really starting to get excited about this. (Jet lag must have dampened it thus far)

Our host taught us about Mate (tea) and shared it with a few of us, even showed us how to properly prepare and drink it. It smelled like hay, amd tasted about the same.  After the 2nd cup it grows on you, not unlike your first beer. Experiencing the local culture is always educational,  and hostels allow you a bit of an insiders view. Things you wont get in a hotel or resort. I should also mention our host had great food recommendation;  when I checked in he asked if I were a vegetarian.  I laughed and said no, and he told me "Argentina is no place for a vegetarian!" We get along great. 

I really like this city.  What it lacks in scenery and adventure it makes up for in culture and simplicity.  Everything is super close and accessible,  and especially safe. I'm excited to pick up some souvenirs here on my way out, before I head north in a few weeks. 

View as we flew in

Mate!

First Mate experience

Had to add my name!

Map Wall

Cafe w Baileys. Delicious!

Dorm room

Love the birds

Their "Title" is my goal in life.

One of the common areas at Schillings

Hostels, Airplanes and Spellcheck

So, a few have Suggested a blog for my trip. Which I laughed at, and then realized (after typing my first email home) that blogging would be much easier. So here you have it.

First, let me tell you that logging into this computer has been a treat. Googling "how to google in English" was fun. Finding out that the keyboard is just slightly different enough to be annoying (where the H*** is the "@" key?!?!) I had to copy/paste it from google, because it sits just below the Q and no key I can find will let me use it. And, while I began typing (even though the page is now in English) every word is underlined as misspelled. 

Ok, I fixed that problem. This is a treat.

So my first night I stayed in a Hostel in Vancouver, B.C. Hostels are fun, if you have never been to one, I suggest it to everyone. At least once. This was my 2nd hostel experience and it was bit more interesting than the first. Of my 3 roommates, one was a bit...different. She wasn (AH! cant find the apostrophe...dammit) Ok she wasn't dangerous, but she was one some sort of drug. She stood by my bed and looked at the wall, scratching her head for about 30 minutes, laughing and carrying on with herself...or the wall.. no telling. She also entered and exited the room about 14 times while the rest of us tried to fall asleep. Needless to say, I woke up at 3:45 am to catch my train with very little sleep.

The train to the airport was actually very simple and clean, and I met some nice folks while waiting for the station to open at 4:30 in the morning. Actually, surprisingly, I have met a number of nice chatty folk on this trip so far. A guy my age on the shuttle from Bellingham to B.C., a nurse at the bar in Houston, a Linguist for the DOD in the galley of the plane (where we stood stretching and drinking tiny cups of water to avoid sitting in our seats any longer). It is delightful to meet people from all over (and to realize just how small the world is). Two of the folks I met my first 24 hours are from New Brunswick, so they actually KNEW where I was from. Anyway...

I opted to leave my tiny laptop at home, which I am happy for. Most hotels and hostels provide computers. And the flights all had movies. Which really helps the time fly by.

So I got here to Buenos Aires with little trouble. However, the Kiosk at the airport for the Holiday Inn told me, rudely, that they had no vacancies. Which, of course, I doubted as I had just been on their website when we landed. So being the stubborn American that I am I booked a room online and came back and asked her for the shuttle. She, predictably, gave me lip about already explaining to me they had no rooms. I showed her my confirmation, and she huffed, smiled, and led me to the shuttle. I wonder if they are instructed to tell foreigners that there are no rooms... not sure. But, I splurged on a room as it will likely be my only "me" time for awhile, and I had a 20 hour layover that I really only wanted to spend in bed. The city is a 2 hour shuttle from the airport, where I could have easily got a hostel room for the cost of lunch back home, but I wanted speed and comfort.

I napped the day way and literally dragged myself out of bed to eat dinner. It was...an educational experience.

Here is what I learned so far.

1. That is, indeed a bidet, not a urinal in the bathroom. And when pushed, it will soak the ceiling. How fun!
2. It is rude to give a thumbs up, or the OK sign. Not to be used in place of language difficulties.
3. Asking for a to-go box is rude and undesirable...unless you tell them it is for your pet...which makes it slightly better. In fact, eating all of your food is rude as well. Best to leave some.
4. Internet does not work in my restaurant, otherwise I would have known all this, but I was unable to look it up. Excellent.
5. Tipping here is different. For instance, tipping cab drivers is not accepted.
6. My basic Spanish isn't so bad, however Argentina has its own version. So I am still a bit screwed.
7. We are the only country I have traveled in my life that can screw up coffee. It is far better everywhere else. South America has not disappointed!

I will try to load some pics on here later. We shall see how this blog idea works out.

Also, as I type this, I am breaking out in hives. Something at the spa disagreed with me, and my shower only made it itchier. And so it begins! Benadryl...why didn't I bring Benadryl...

We flew right over Mount Baker. Amazing view.

Caprese, Cafe, Fiambres y quesos

Stone Wall in the Spa. I wanted to climb it so bad

Spa View from Sauna