Fin Del Mundo - The End of The World

No, you can't steal baby penguins

My trip to "The End of the World" has been eventful. Once I arrived I immediately loved my hostel. Even if it is at the top of the city,  which requires some urban hiking to reach. The hostel had someone waiting at the airport for me with a sign. I was SO delighted. Until they were late,  and I was standing there like a dummy for a 20 minutes. But hey, it was still cool to see a sign with my name on it at the airport :)

Runway, El Calafate

Beautiful flight out of El Calafate

After I arrived I made the journey downtown and found an English speaking travel agent.  I immediately liked this dude, first,  he told me not to waste my money on trekking tours because I was physically able and could do it unguided.  Then he asked where I live, because after 10 years he no longer wishes to live in Ushuaia and is therefore "shopping" for a similar paradise. We discussed the PNW at length,  swapped photos/videos and chatted about snowboarding. Eventually I did book a trip, but I should have taken his advice and saved my $$. Oh well, everything happens for a purpose.

That night, by chance, I discovered a friend I had met in El Calafate, Joy, had just arrived and was staying at the same hostel. We caught up over breakfast and decided to keep one another company. We also picked up another solo traveler, and the 3 of us would spend the week accomplishing nothing, but laughing at everything.

Holy Food Coma

I ended up on a 4x4 adventure, which was quite a waste of  money. The guide asked me to sit up front, as I was the only English speaking customer that day. While he filled the rest in on the touristy information in Spanish, we moved on to climbing, mountaineering and such in English. That alone ended up saving the day...our first stop was to watch people play in a snowbank on the side of the road. While it was great to see people experience snow for the first time, it was immediately evident that this tour was not for me. Luckily, lunch included mass amounts of wine and I was able to sleep the whole way back to the city. At least I got some good photos...

The highlight of Ushuaia was definitely the penguins. Even though we had consumed entirely too much wine the previous night out of boredom, somehow I didnt get sea-sick on our boat ride out. Again, lucky with guides, I was told I could stand at the back with the captain and got some great footage for my video as we crossed the Beagle Channel to the island. These penguins randomly chose this island to develop their colony. The owners of the land had a lucky break, as the island is a part of their Estancia (Ranch) and therefor private property. They charge about $14 a person to enter their land.

This Leapord Seal was too fat and lazy to care we were there...or at least to do anything about it

Penguinos!

Boats must yield to the locals

Ushuaia at sunset on a rainy last day. 

Again, nothing crazy happened on my 5 days here, but I can say I saw some penguins and the end of the world. Joy also convinced me to change my travel plans and join her in Torres Del Paine. Why not, I came to explore Patagonia, right? We tried to convince Vashti to join us without luck.

Joy, Myself and Vashti. Miss these girls!

No shortage of wine at lunch

Enjoying snow for the first time

El Chalten, Patagonia

I was very lucky with my timing in El Chalten. This whole trip I have been flying by the seat of my pants, using word of mouth to determine where I should go next.  The days before arriving in El Chalten I heard people say their time there was spent huddled in their hostels,  avoiding the sideways rain and unbearable winds, never seeing a mountain for the clouds.

My first day was looking about the same. On the 2nd day I was awarded a tiny peak at Cerro Torre. I met a gentleman from Spain on the bus into town,  and he invited me to trek the following day. I had planned a rest day, but thought the company would be nice. The hike was beautiful,  but I didn't really know any better at that point. 

That night I met an Irish girl at the hostel, Aisling, as well as a man named Alan from Las Vegas. We began swapping trekking ideas and beta. By the next morning Aisling and I decided it was too nice for a rest day, so I pushed the idea aside. Originally we planned to do all the short hikes, but realizing how lucky we were with weather we decided on a tougher, steep hike to the 360 viewpoint.

Day 2, Co. Solo, Laguna Torre, Mt. Fitz Roy

 It was windy,  exposed and chilling, but so worth it. Aisling is a strong hiker and it felt good to break a sweat. We made ridiculously good time and battled the conditions for lunch, which gave us time to see the mountains come out! The weather is so finicky and similar to the cascades.

To think,  some people arrive and never once see these mountains

 This town is located so that you can hike out to the mountains and still return at a decent time. I got back and ran errands, booked a bus and had the most delicious meal and a rewarding spa treatment. Our hostel was super quiet and quaint, which allowed plenty of time to reflect and meet other travelers.

I literally ran from dinner to the end of town to get sunset photos

 Wednesday I took my "rest day" which included about 6 miles of walking, an hour or so of bouldering and this waterfall hike. I got some amazing photos and video.

 The views are ever changing, just like the weather. Thursday I tagged along with Aisling and her 4 friends traveling with her. This was the big day, trekking to Mount Fitz Roy. We opted to take a shuttle to the far trailhead so we could take advantage of different views and a less steep ascent. Although, this trail is still ridiculously steep.

The grade on this sign is a serious understatement.  Holy kittens it was steep.

 Trips like this, even traveling solo, you are rarely alone. It is next to impossible not to meet people and make friends.  Sadly though,  I parted ways with the Irish clan as they were rushed to catch a bus.  I spent an extra hour or more napping by the lake, taking side trails and soaking up to heat. It was the first hot day, and by the end I was seeking shade desperately!

They say this place is an addiction, that once you experience it there is no going back.  I can say from experience that burrows it's way in to settle in for the long haul, slowly seeping into your bloodstream until it is a physical part of you, and you a part of it.  There really are no words, no pictures, no way to express what it has done to me. But I can assure you it is a feeling that won't go away.  It will drag me back, again and again. I will return here in my lifetime, that is a fact. 

Horseback Riding - La Estancia Sante Teresita

When the shuttle picked me up for this trip, I started having some doubts. Traveling solo does not come without small periods of doubt, but this was my first. I feared I was straying from my journey by taking paid tours, I couldn't have known how life changing this experience would turn out to be.

The tour calls for a 2 hour scenic drive to a ranch (Estancia) in the middle of nowhere, followed by a 5 hour horse ride, lunch, and a bus ride back. Because I was traveling on to El Chalten I was offered to stay at the Estancia and catch the bus to Chalten the following day. This turned into one of my best decisions yet. 

My horse, day 1 as we leave for our ride

 La Estancia Sante Teresita is over 800,000 Acres. That is not a typo. The sheep were currently in the mountains enjoying the spring grasses. Our ride took us across many river crossings, across desert landscape and along Lago Buenos Aires as the waves crashed (not unlike the great lakes) This was no trail ride, and these weren't camp horses!

Lago Buenos Aires 

 There are multiple seasonal homes on the property for tending to the sheep throughout the year. There is no electricity at these homes,  only a wood stove and views to last a lifetime.

Halfway through our ride we came upon a seasonal home on the ranch where we enjoyed lunch (and wine!)

Kisses for not bucking me off after the first half

My horse did nit want to socialize,  so ge "escaped" with his leg cuffs on

If you look closely on the left you can see the house we ate lunch in as we leave the valley.

Sunrise at the ranch

 Staying at the ranch "hostel" was quite a rustic experience.  This program is run by 4 friends who moved here from their hometown up north,  and it is an association of sorts. Money gets split among the ranch workers, ranch and guides. These guys are my age and have only been doing this a year. It really is a very special opportunity,  as it is not touristy in the least. My shower was prepared by woodstove, which they insisted upon since I was a guest, turned out to be one of the best showers of my life! Scalding hot water drawn from the river, heated by wood, it was just amazing.

One of the guides had family in town, so dinner was a special occasion.  They can almost anything as the land is not suited for farming vegetables or the like. The fish was caught at the ranch, salmon and trout, and it was divine.

Our dinner.  Thrown together finger foods have never been so good!

 We stayed up until 2am, finished a case of wine, tapped out the solar power around midnight yet continued the party anyway. I was the only "guest" and the rest were all friends and family of the group. It really was an unforgettable experience,  as well as a rare taste of local life, minus the tourism side. It was, in short, exactly what I am seeking down here. I was offered to ride with the guide, Juaquin, in the morning to herd sheep for a special birthday lunch as well as gather horses for the next day's tour. Horses and sheep were out to pasture on one side of the ranch, but still a 2 hour ride to gather them. I was delighted and woke early to be ready.

Juaquin and I left after breakfast,  and this ride was even better than the 6 hours the previous day. Watching the older sheep dog, and the younger pup in training, was exhilarating.  It is amazing how loyal and in tune they were to Juaquin. A look, a head nod, a simple wave of the hand, and the dog knew just what was expected.

The first group of sheep we found proved to be very easy, aside from one. A single sheep was stalling, and when the dog went to prod the straggler it fell over, feet in the air, like a cartoon death. Concerned,  we rode over to investigate.  The sheep lay on its side, panting. Juaquin tried everything he could to get it standing, but it was clear the sheep was in trouble. After 5 minutes of riding, we looked back to see it standing and I swear we could hear it laughing at us. He would live another day!

We spoke less than 10 words the whole morning,  but Juaquin could tell I wanted to run.  The fields are very busy with clumps of rough terrain,  not ideal for running. But we came upon a smooth area and he asked if I would like to Gallop, which of course I did. My horse was a bit testy so I was nervous, but he had spooked earlier and I got him under control without being thrown,  so I felt more confident.  It wouldn't be my first flight off a horse,  so I was prepared for anything.

Words can't really do justice to this trip. Our gallop was absolutely amazing. These horses roam hundreds of thousands of acres. They aren't the domestic horses we corral in the states. They are almost feral, in tune with their land and it's crazy winds. It was the experience of a lifetime.

After our joy riding we gathered up all the other horses and I was able to help keep them in line on our ride back. At the ranch they were corralled,  seperated and released back after the 4 for today's tour were chosen. Again, I had been awarded an insider view. I felt blessed.

Back at the ranch preparations were being made for a birthday party. It was Sunday, a family day, and guests were gathering. A sheep was cooking over a fire, wine was being poured, and laughter was to be had.

My first Sheep, over a fire,  after we herded it in that morning. 

The best rib I have, and will, ever eat

Don't hassle me

The older gentleman (in the pic, beside the fire) was the birthday boy. He works at the ranch and although he spoke zero english he was always courteous and hospitable. As I was packing to leave he gave me a few parting gifts.  Even with our language barriers I felt very welcomed and appreciated.  He handed me the claw of a Puma,  and then he decided I should make earrings so he brought me a second. And then he gave me a beanie with the Argentina colors.

This whole weekend was out of this world. Although little english was spoken, so much was shared. Every time I am reminded of it my heart fills.  Like the feeling you get during an intense movie, or an inspiring video, or a song you feel in your soul. But I wasn't just a bystander,  I was living it.