Horseback Riding - La Estancia Sante Teresita

When the shuttle picked me up for this trip, I started having some doubts. Traveling solo does not come without small periods of doubt, but this was my first. I feared I was straying from my journey by taking paid tours, I couldn't have known how life changing this experience would turn out to be.

The tour calls for a 2 hour scenic drive to a ranch (Estancia) in the middle of nowhere, followed by a 5 hour horse ride, lunch, and a bus ride back. Because I was traveling on to El Chalten I was offered to stay at the Estancia and catch the bus to Chalten the following day. This turned into one of my best decisions yet. 

My horse, day 1 as we leave for our ride

 La Estancia Sante Teresita is over 800,000 Acres. That is not a typo. The sheep were currently in the mountains enjoying the spring grasses. Our ride took us across many river crossings, across desert landscape and along Lago Buenos Aires as the waves crashed (not unlike the great lakes) This was no trail ride, and these weren't camp horses!

Lago Buenos Aires 

 There are multiple seasonal homes on the property for tending to the sheep throughout the year. There is no electricity at these homes,  only a wood stove and views to last a lifetime.

Halfway through our ride we came upon a seasonal home on the ranch where we enjoyed lunch (and wine!)

Kisses for not bucking me off after the first half

My horse did nit want to socialize,  so ge "escaped" with his leg cuffs on

If you look closely on the left you can see the house we ate lunch in as we leave the valley.

Sunrise at the ranch

 Staying at the ranch "hostel" was quite a rustic experience.  This program is run by 4 friends who moved here from their hometown up north,  and it is an association of sorts. Money gets split among the ranch workers, ranch and guides. These guys are my age and have only been doing this a year. It really is a very special opportunity,  as it is not touristy in the least. My shower was prepared by woodstove, which they insisted upon since I was a guest, turned out to be one of the best showers of my life! Scalding hot water drawn from the river, heated by wood, it was just amazing.

One of the guides had family in town, so dinner was a special occasion.  They can almost anything as the land is not suited for farming vegetables or the like. The fish was caught at the ranch, salmon and trout, and it was divine.

Our dinner.  Thrown together finger foods have never been so good!

 We stayed up until 2am, finished a case of wine, tapped out the solar power around midnight yet continued the party anyway. I was the only "guest" and the rest were all friends and family of the group. It really was an unforgettable experience,  as well as a rare taste of local life, minus the tourism side. It was, in short, exactly what I am seeking down here. I was offered to ride with the guide, Juaquin, in the morning to herd sheep for a special birthday lunch as well as gather horses for the next day's tour. Horses and sheep were out to pasture on one side of the ranch, but still a 2 hour ride to gather them. I was delighted and woke early to be ready.

Juaquin and I left after breakfast,  and this ride was even better than the 6 hours the previous day. Watching the older sheep dog, and the younger pup in training, was exhilarating.  It is amazing how loyal and in tune they were to Juaquin. A look, a head nod, a simple wave of the hand, and the dog knew just what was expected.

The first group of sheep we found proved to be very easy, aside from one. A single sheep was stalling, and when the dog went to prod the straggler it fell over, feet in the air, like a cartoon death. Concerned,  we rode over to investigate.  The sheep lay on its side, panting. Juaquin tried everything he could to get it standing, but it was clear the sheep was in trouble. After 5 minutes of riding, we looked back to see it standing and I swear we could hear it laughing at us. He would live another day!

We spoke less than 10 words the whole morning,  but Juaquin could tell I wanted to run.  The fields are very busy with clumps of rough terrain,  not ideal for running. But we came upon a smooth area and he asked if I would like to Gallop, which of course I did. My horse was a bit testy so I was nervous, but he had spooked earlier and I got him under control without being thrown,  so I felt more confident.  It wouldn't be my first flight off a horse,  so I was prepared for anything.

Words can't really do justice to this trip. Our gallop was absolutely amazing. These horses roam hundreds of thousands of acres. They aren't the domestic horses we corral in the states. They are almost feral, in tune with their land and it's crazy winds. It was the experience of a lifetime.

After our joy riding we gathered up all the other horses and I was able to help keep them in line on our ride back. At the ranch they were corralled,  seperated and released back after the 4 for today's tour were chosen. Again, I had been awarded an insider view. I felt blessed.

Back at the ranch preparations were being made for a birthday party. It was Sunday, a family day, and guests were gathering. A sheep was cooking over a fire, wine was being poured, and laughter was to be had.

My first Sheep, over a fire,  after we herded it in that morning. 

The best rib I have, and will, ever eat

Don't hassle me

The older gentleman (in the pic, beside the fire) was the birthday boy. He works at the ranch and although he spoke zero english he was always courteous and hospitable. As I was packing to leave he gave me a few parting gifts.  Even with our language barriers I felt very welcomed and appreciated.  He handed me the claw of a Puma,  and then he decided I should make earrings so he brought me a second. And then he gave me a beanie with the Argentina colors.

This whole weekend was out of this world. Although little english was spoken, so much was shared. Every time I am reminded of it my heart fills.  Like the feeling you get during an intense movie, or an inspiring video, or a song you feel in your soul. But I wasn't just a bystander,  I was living it.